I’m writing this from the back of a dusty pickup somewhere south of Guerrero Negro, salt crust still in my hair and a stupid grin that won’t go away. Just spent nine days at San Juanico (everyone calls it Scorpion Bay) and I swear the wave there broke my brain in the best way possible.

Most people fly into Loreto or Los Cabos and pay 400-500 bucks for a shuttle. Me? Flew into Tijuana for cheap, took an ABC bus overnight to Vizcaino (like 40 USD if you book early), then hitched with some fishermen the last 120 km of dirt road for the price of a six-pack. Whole trip from the border cost me under 90 dollars and half a day extra, totally worth it.

First time you drive down the bluff and see all seven points lighting up in a row… man, it’s ridiculous. The wave just keeps peeling and peeling, sometimes you ride for 600-700 meters if you connect everything on a good day. Third and fourth point are usually the sweetest, super walled with occasional almond barrels, but when second point turns on you better be ready to sprint because it’s fast and hollow.

Best swell window is May to October, south swells wrapping all the way up the Pacific side. June and July can get stupid hot (40°C easy) but the water is bath-warm and nights cool off. I was there mid-September this year, 4-6 foot almost every morning, glassy till 11 am, then sea breeze but still rideable. Only saw maybe 8-12 guys in the water max, even on weekends.

Staying is cheap as hell if you don’t need luxury. There’s a bunch of palapas right on the bluff for 20-30 USD a night, or you can camp on the beach for free if you bring your own gear. Bring everything though: no real shop in town, closest decent groceries are two hours away. Locals are super chill, kids will trade you fresh lobster for a couple cold beers, best deal ever.

The dirt road scares most people off, honestly that’s why it’s still empty. 4×4 recommended but not 100% needed if you take it slow and deflate tires a bit. Just don’t try it after rain, gets nasty real quick. I saw one rental sedan stuck axle-deep, dude paid 200 bucks to get pulled out, lesson learned.

Paddling tip: start at first point when it’s small, then walk back up the beach when the tide drops and it starts hitting the outer points. Saves your arms and you score way more waves. On bigger days just paddle straight out at third, current is strong but manageable once you figure the channel.

Got one evening session completely alone at fourth point, sun dropping behind the hills, dolphins cruising the lineup, wave after wave with nobody around. Felt like cheating. Kept thinking “this can’t be real” the whole time.

Place isn’t perfect, scorpions are legit (shake your shoes every morning), internet is basically nonexistent, and you’ll eat a lot of tortillas and fish. But if you want a point break that spoils you for life and still feels like a secret, Scorpion Bay is it.

Already planning the next mission. If you go, keep it quiet yeah? Some waves are better when not everyone knows ;)

Peace from the desert, catch you on the next south swell.