(Real numbers, exact VW T3 route Peniche → Algarve, free camping spots, surf etiquette, zero bullshit – October 2025 fresh)

I just finished 28 days in my beat-up 1987 T3 Westfalia and the grand total was 562 € – that’s 20,07 € per day including diesel, food, showers, beers, tolls, and the one parking ticket I deserved. Here’s the route and the hacks that still work right now.

The Golden Route (Peniche → Sagres → Aljezur loop)

Week 1 – Peniche / Baleal
Free camp: parking above Lagide (the big dirt lot behind the cliffs, 39.3702, -9.3835). Cops never bother vans, sunrise over Supertubos, 2-min walk to the wave.
Alternative if full: Baleal north beach carpark, quiet after 10 pm.
Daily cost: 16-19 € (8 € diesel, 8 € Lidl food, 2 € coffee, 2 € evening beer at bar do Bruno).

Week 2 – Ericeira → Cascais → Costa Caparica
Free camp #1: Ribeira d’Ilhas upper carpark (only 2-3 vans max, arrive after 8 pm, leave before 9 am).
Free camp #2: Praia Grande north end (big gravel lot, toilets open).
Free camp #3: Costa Caparica “Fonte da Telha” strip – park anywhere along the 5 km of dunes, locals do bonfires, feels like Mexico.
Shower hack: free cold showers at every beach + 2 € hot shower at Ericeira surf shop if you buy a 1 € wax.
Daily cost: 18-22 € (tolls on A8 are 12 € total if you avoid them on old N roads).

Week 3 – Odeceixe → Arrifana → Monte Clérigo
Free camp #1: Odeceixe beach parking (huge field, 50+ vans, sunrise yoga crowd, nobody cares).
Free camp #2: Arrifana upper viewpoint (the classic one, toilets, 180° ocean view).
Free camp #3: Monte Clérigo dirt roads behind the hill – pick any track, total privacy.
Daily cost: 15-18 € (diesel drops, you’re driving 30 km max per day).

Week 4 – Carrapateira → Sagres → Lagos loop
Free camp #1: Praia do Amado north side (big flat area, 100 vans in summer but empty now).
Free camp #2: Sagres fortress west cliff (39.999, -8.949) – windy but epic, toilets at the fortress 200 m away.
Free camp #3: Praia da Luz west end (quiet residential, free all winter).
Daily cost: 17-20 € (extra for pastéis de nata addiction).

Real daily average breakdown (28 days):
- Diesel (2.000 km total, 1.9 €/L) → 140 €
- Food (Lidl + local markets, cooking 90 % meals) → 210 €
- Showers / laundry / random parking → 45 €
- Coffee + beers + one restaurant splurge → 95 €
- Tolls (only used twice) + sim card → 42 €
- One 25 € parking ticket in Lisbon (don’t park yellow lines, lesson learned) → 25 €
Grand total: 557 € + 5 € buffer = 562 €

Surf etiquette quick rules so you don’t get yelled at:
- Peniche/Baleal: locals rule the peak at Supertubos and Lagide, smile and wait your turn.
- Ericeira WSL reserve: don’t drop in on the grey-haired dudes at Ribeira or Coxos, they will paddle you in.
- Arrifana: the left is one-channel, wait your turn or enjoy the walk of shame.
- Everywhere else: just be chill, say “bom dia”, offer a beer after session, you’re golden.

Van hacks 2025:
- Download Park4Night but trust only reviews from last 30 days, half the “free spots” now have height barriers.
- Fill water at cemeteries (potable and free) or petrol stations (ask nicely).
- Lidl parking lots let you sleep if you arrive late and leave early.
- Solar shower bag + 5 L bottle = hot shower every afternoon.

You wake up to empty barrels, cook pasta watching sunset, fall asleep to waves crashing. All for less than a hostel bed in Lisbon.

Portugal vanlife isn’t dead, it just moved 500 m off the main road.
See you at the next low-pressure, I’ll be the dirty red T3 with the cracked windshield and the stupid grin.

Endless summer is still alive, brothers and sisters.